Chalayan Math

Julian Hakes

Sculpture shoes by Victoria Spruce

Victoria Spruce and her sculptural shoes are the stars of our micro-exhibition Dezeen Platform at Dezeen Space.

Best dressed of 2011.

LIAT GINZBURG'S

Natalie Joos

16 Dec 2011 17:00 by Stockholm Street Style.
Beautiful design of the back of the shoe. A great contrast of the monochrome stripes of the top with the beautiful shorts. 

Phoebe English

  

A very unusual fabric used i.e. calico which is used during the toile process. Phoebe is used calico by bleaching it. Its a very interesting and visually pleasing way to use calico.

Fashion Communication through film

William Klein’s work in Qui etes-vaus is clearly art of fashion. Klein is a american photographer and director, famous for his ironic approach towards fashion photography. 

Klein's first venture as a movie was a french film 'who are you Polly Maggoo?'. Its an art film focusing on fashion and its excesses. It stars Dorothy McGowan who was a famous model working for Vogue etc. 

The fashion show in the film of 1966 is a  inspirational piece for me. This film portrays avant-garde fashion. Its been filmed in a very artistic and unusual architectural venue. The models instead of cat walking are on a movable and rotatory platform. This fashion show was so much ahead of its time because such dramatised and conceptual shows are to be seen now days like McQueen or Chalayan's shows. The garments are aluminium sheets which are creatively used and molded to create the silhouettes. This film truly represents the future fashion and providing a medium to represent fashion.

  

 

‘Blow up’ is a film based on David bailey a well known fashion photographer. This film shows the link of photography, film, fashion and advertisement. In this it shows Bailey’s behaviour towards models. Most interestingly the last scene is created very well. The almost transparent black sheets between the models give a very 3d and architectural affect.   

                                        

With a collection inspired by religious iconography and Florentine opulence, Gareth Pugh made his Italian fashion debut at Pitti Immagine, showcasing his clothes via a unique fashion film, created with Ruth Hogben. This film is avnat-garde and representing fashion in a surreal way. Pugh is communicating his concept and view of his collection in a medium of a film. Gareth's designs are mainly influenced by architecture and the use of dark palette. This is a fashion film specifically made to promote designers work but Klein's film was showing this industry through making a feature film. Both films show the relation of body and architecture.

My first dress design in paper.

Metallics

Heavy metal strikes a chord when looking for an alternative to the LBD.

Pixelated designs

Pixels are the essence of the F/W 2011/12 of Japanese designer Kunihiko Morinaga for the brand Anrealage.

Fashion Communication

We had a seminar based on fashion communication. It was about the ways designers communicate themselves through their creations.

During the power point presentation we were shown Hussein Chalyan’s work ‘Burka’ (1996) and were asked to give our opinions that how we feel to communicate his particular idea.

I felt that it shows different aspects of a woman that how she’s perceived in this society. I said that in simple words the woman on far right is showing the sluttery side and the one on far left is staying in limits. I supported it with an example that two women on the street one half nude and the other one covered, the nude one would be more vulnerable and exposed. The other one would be perceived by a man in a different and respected way. In a male dominating society that would happen.

My peer said nudity is only on catwalks but I think that is what these designers like Chalayan and McQueen showed. They were showing the future and people could not heck it and they were not welcomed warmly by this industry in the beginning. History repeats itself and it’s likewise with fashion. So a woman living with minimal clothes or no clothes is not far away.

My few peers thought there’s a religious point he is trying to make. A question came across like what the point is wearing that ‘Burka’ on top if you are wearing clothes underneath it. I think they may feel cold (J) or they want to stick to their culture unlike for example Britain where there’s no such culture.

If we see it from religious point of view it exactly means that it been worn to minimize the men disrespecting or seeing them as a sex tool. As I said a man always respects a woman covered over the nude one. The less seduction the less contact leads to less sex before marriage which is not allowed in some religions. It’s not allowed because it leads to many diseases and unhealthy relationships leading to increasing rate of divorce.

On this they were saying women not respected they show them in advertisement nude as sex sells on the other hand they were against my view on Chalayan’s work. I feel that is a hypocritical statement. Do you?

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Doll

A pre-project to create a doll representing us. I was thinking about it quite a lot and having lots of ideas but did not end up with any of those. Uni started and went to the art shop standing there to get some stuff to create a doll. An idea occurred to create a doll out of rubber and numerous pins penetrated into it to show life and the rubbers covered in red colour. Arms and legs were red sticks. Pins were showing the hardships of life. As expected, people took the mickey out of it a lot but the tutor liked it which counted for me.  

First day

First day at Leeds college of art. Paper work, chat, knowing few new people. Once I started talking felt much better and relaxed whereas at first was slightly nervous. I was the only guy there but found out more people are going to join us later on. Felt really good and excited.

final show

pre interview project

Magazine Issue